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Many people have been hitting my blog from Google for instructions installing metal storm panels. I cannot do that for everyone, since every house is different. Here are a few tips that I have learned based on my personal experience installing my storm panels.
Since you are ready to install your metal storm shutters, I assume the following is true.
- You will be installing on a stucco concrete-block house.
- You have accurately measured your windows.
- You have ordered and received your storm panels and tracks.
- You have carefully inspected and measured your new panels and tracks.
- Everything will fit.
- You have all the necessary fasteners.
- You have all the necessary tools.
- You have pre-drilled all the 1/4-inch track mounting holes.
Since the above process can take months, you obviously started back in April. With that as an introduction, here are some things I did/learned about as a single-person hurricane panel installer. Pictures of most of the tools and fasteners can be seen here at the Hurricane Depot site.
- Allow yourself plenty of time to install the tracks. I had to spread the effort over several days to allow for interruptions from family, weather, work, dinner, darkness, etc.
- My first efforts were on our master bedroom bay windows since they were inside our screen porch. This eliminated the bugs I had to contend with as I figured out the best technique.
- Do your first install on windows with easy access to your tools. You will forget something.
- I planned to have my headers match up with the top edge line of the stucco trim around my windows. This guaranteed that the top fasteners satisfied edge distance requirements. It also made the headers, which would be left up permanently, look better.
- I sized the panel length to ensure the lower tracks met the fastener edge distance requirements. I also made panels for similar-size windows all the same length in whole inches. This reduced the number of different lengths I had to have to cover the entire house.
- I hung the headers first. The intent is to make the easiest installation the one at the top of the ladder. I measured the stucco trim width and the track width, then subtracted and halved the result. This gave me the distance from the edge of the stucco trim to the header (for example, 2-inches).
- With the edge distance known, I measured the distance from the end of the track to the hole. I also measured the distance from the top edge to the hole. With these three numbers, I was able to measure, mark and drill the first hole in the wall.
- With the first end hole drilled, I inserted a Tapcon through the header hole and hung the header from the hole. After shifting the ladder and tools, I pivoted the header up so I could position it horizontally, check it level, and drill the hole for the other end with the header in position. I then drove both Tapcons fully in.
- With the header in position, I then drilled and inserted the Tapcons for the remaining holes.
- This technique was much better than my first effort of marking all the holes on the stucco and then going back and drilling them. Slight variations made driving the Tapcons very difficult. I had to use a regular hex head driver bit rather than the Tapcon Condrive.
- Short headers can just be held up and drilled. The technique above is for longer headers.
- With the header in position, insert a panel into the header and hold it tightly in position. Mark the sill about 1/4-inch below the bottom of the panel. The extra space will allow for the thickness of the footer (about 1/16th-inch) and some insertion jiggle room.
- If you are drilling into pre-cast concrete window headers and sills, be ready to drill another hole if you hit their reinforcing rods. Drilling through the reinforcing will weaken the piece. Give up and drill a new hole nearby.
- Adjust the 1/4-inch by 1/2-inch combination bit such that the pilot drill bit extends out far enough to account for the full length of your chosen length of sidewalk bolts. I am using 1-1/2-inch sidewalk bolts. You will need to drill in almost the full depth of the larger portion of the combination drill bit.
- Remove the panel, hold the footer track up, align it horizontally to be identical to the header, and drill a shallow marker hole using the combination bit. This is why you pre-drilled your footer holes using a 1/4-inch bit. Using the combination bit, drill the hole for the anchor.
- Blow out all the powdered concrete. Insert the anchor zinc-end first. Set the anchor by tapping the lead down firmly over the zinc. Do not hit it too hard or you will damage the threads in the zinc. If you do (like I did at first), use a 1/4-20 tap to chase the threads and clean them up.
- Use a battery-powered drill with a Phillips bit to install and remove the sidewalk bolts. This makes the work go faster and minimizes bit changes in your corded drill. The battery drill can also be set up for a low torque installation. Drive them in slowly the first several times to prevent damage.
- Loosely fasten the footer track with a sidewalk bolt to the sill. Swing it up until it is horizontal, check it level, and drill another marker hole through the footer track hole. Drill and set that anchor. Fasten the track to the sill with another sidewalk bolt. Tighten both sidewalk bolts firmly. Drill marker holes through the rest of the footer holes.
- Remove the footer track. Drill and set the remaining anchors.
- Test install the sidewalk bolts. Chase the threads of the anchors as required until you get smooth operation.
- Install the footer track using all sidewalk bolts to ensure alignment. Widen the holes in the track if any bolt is a tight fit.
- Test fit all storm panels and then remove them.
- Remove the footer track, reinstall the sidewalk bolts tightly in the anchors to protect them, and store the panels and the footer track for storm use.
- Install the sidewalk bolts tightly to ensure curious neighborhood children cannot easily remove them.
- I will be painting the sidewalk bolts to match the stucco window trim. This will make them almost invisible from a distance.
- Use caution and wash your hands after handling the lead anchors.
- If you do not use a tool belt, take extra fasteners up the ladder with you. If you need to install two Tapcons, take four. You will drop two.
- Wear gloves throughout the installation to prevent cuts. I used a pair of Craftsman mechanic's gloves.
- Ensure you have enough washered wing nuts to install all panels at the same time when a storm approaches.
- Some washered wing nuts have a higher or squared central hub that makes it impossible to fully seat them in the driver bit. This is not a significant issue since the wing nut bit still fully engages and drives the wing nut.
- You may need to chase the threads of the wingnuts with thr 1/4-20 tap to clean them up for use.
- You will need to modify the header process if your soffit is low. Have fun -- I did.
- Do not underestimate the curiosity of a two-year-old for your tools, concrete dust, metal shavings, etc.
Update 1:
- Remember to not do your track installations with thunderstorms nearby.
- When installing a long track (I have one over 12-feet), you can make an installation aid with a 2x2 and a washcloth. After measuring, marking and drilling your first end hole, prop one end of the long track on you ladder. Wrap the end of the 2x2 with a folded washcloth and stick it into the header track. Lift the track up and prop it nearly in position. The washcloth provides a friction fit to keep the 2x2 from sliding out. With the header track elevated, partially drive the first Tapcon. Move your ladder to the other end. Use the 2x2 like a third hand to hold the header elevated while you drill the other end hole. (Since I was working about 14-feet up for this big header, I used a very long 2x2 that I happened to have on-hand.)
- I used the same 2x2 as a ladder cross-brace. Since my ladder did not reach the top of our picture window, I did not want to rest it against the glass while working. I used packing tape to secure it crosswise to the top of the ladder. The 2x2 rested against the window uprights and kept the top of the ladder away from the glass.
- Do all your header installations then all your footer installations to minimize drill bit changes.
- Do the header installations when you have more time available since the ladder work will take longer. You can do the footer installations while standing on the ground at any time.
Update 2:
- When you are drilling lots of holes in concrete, like when you are using one of those special Tapcon bits, the drilling will lose effectiveness. This happens when the bit gets very hot and the concrete inside the hole reacts and gets very slick. To restore the bite, spit on the top of your ladder, and cool the drill bit in the saliva. It will likely sizzle. Wipe off any concrete residue. Your drilling should be better. (Don't laugh -- it works.)
- Do not drill in concrete at the full drill speed. This will only heat the bit up quickly. Use a slow speed with firm pressure.
- Mark your panels top and bottom to identify which windows they can be installed on. I used a simple indelible black marker.
Update 3:
- Detailed instructions on how to install machine screw anchors, ¼-20 brass wood bushings, and brass machine screw anchors using a ½ x ¼ combination drill bit in both English and Spanish can be found here.
- Need to see pictures of hurricane hardware? All Points Screw, Bolt, & Specialty Co. has an online catalog (PDF) here.
There is more! Read my posts on installation tools, aluminum panels, panel costs, or scan all hurricane posts.
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