My programming has dropped way off due to my day job, my eldest child's swim lessons (she floats!), yard and house maintenance, as well as storm preparations. Since I am my own contractor, I have to plan this around everything else as well as my day job.
After last year's storms, I chose to go with metal hurricane panels as the most cost-effective means of real protection. I would have liked to go with a roller or accordion shutter solution, but they were both cost prohibitive. I will be breaking the description of my hurricane panel installation adventure into several posts, but they can all be accessed via the blog's hurricane category. I will be describing an installation for concrete walls.
The first subject up will be the tools you need to install metal hurricane panels. This list is based on my experience so far as well as the recommendations of the professionals. I will update this as required.
Required
- Anchor set tool - This inexpensive ($3) tool is required since this is the only means of setting the anchors firmly. It consists of a metal rod with a pin on the end in a cavity. You put the pin in the anchor hole and tap the lead down over the zinc insert to fasten the anchor into the hole. No heavy hammering is required.
- Center punch - To stake the drill points on the headers and footers.
- Drill bits - You will need several: 1/4-inch to pre-drill the headers and footers, 1/4-inch by 1/2-inch combination bit for the machine screw anchors, Tapcon bit sized for the fasteners, and a Phillips screwdriver bit for driving the sidewalk bolts. You do not need the special $10 bit for sidewalk bolts since each bolt also has provision for the use of a Phillips screwdriver. Careful use of your Phillips bit will suffice.
- Drill, battery - Use with the wing nut driver and the Phillips screw bit. Turn the torque adjustment way down to 5 or so to install the sidewal bolat and wing nuts. This makes the actual track and shutter installation much easier.
- Drill, corded - A hammer drill is recommended to speed up the drilling, but it is not required. A corded drill is needed for its greater torque and for the large number of holes you will be drilling in concrete.
- Extension cord - You know what this is for.
- Felt marker - For marking the headers, footers and walls for drilling. Do not worry about stray marks since you can touch-up paint later. Measure, identify and mark all the headers and footers as soon as you get them. That way you only have to do it once.
- Hammer - To set the machine screw anchors and stake the drill points.
- Ladder, 14-foot - For installing headers on high windows.
- Ladder, 6-foot - For installing headers on low windows.
- Level, 3-foot - For ensuring the headers and footers are level.
- Nut driver bit, 5/16-inch - Alternate means of driving in Tapcon fasteners, especially when high torque is required.
- Saw horses or table - To support the headers and footers while pre-drilling.
- Shop vacuum - To clean up your mess.
- 1/4-20 tap - I found I needed to chase the threads of some of the anchors after I set them and I needed to clean some of the wingnut threads.
- Tape measure, 25-foot - To measure your windows.
- Work gloves - To protect your hands while handling metal with sharp edges.
Optional
- Tool belt - Needed because you will be up on ladders with lots of small tools and fasteners. This is a great way to carry them around.
- Compressed air - You can blow the concrete dust out of the holes with your breath before inserting fasteners, but an air line does work much better. I used the compressor that I got for my nail guns.
- Tapcon Condrive set - Very useful for drilling and inserting Tapcons. You can also use a 5/16" nut driver bit to drive Tapcons if (when) the Condrive cams out because of high insertion torque.
There is more! Read my posts on installation tips, aluminum panels, panel costs, or scan all hurricane posts. I also have a post on plywood shutters.